Suspenders
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Suspenders (US) or braces (UK) are fabric or leather straps worn over the shoulders to hold up trousers. Straps may be elasticated, either entirely or only at attachment ends and most straps are of woven cloth forming an X or Y shape at the back. Braces are typically attached to trousers with buttons using leather tabs at the ends or, incorrectly according to traditional protocol, clips. In British English the term suspenders or suspender belt refers to a garter belt, used to hold up stockings.
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[edit] History
There have been several precursors to braces throughout the past 300 years, but the modern type were first invented in 1822 by Albert Thurston and were once almost universally worn due to the high cut of mid-nineteenth and early twentieth century trousers, a cut that made a belt impractical. After losing popularity in the first World War, as men became accustomed to uniform belts, braces were still standard throughout the 1920s. Because of their image as underwear,[1] men switched to belts during the 1930s as the waistcoats which had hidden braces became worn less. This also signalled the switch of position of the buttons from the outside of the waistband to the inside. Though the return of fuller-cut trousers in the 1940s revived braces, they did not dominate over belts again to the same extent.[1]
[edit] Fashion
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While they have been in and out of fashion over the last century (alternating with belts in general preference), they are becoming popular again in 2008 in America and Britain following the resurgence of styles seen in period dramas such as the 2008 re-make of Brideshead Revisited.[2]
Current wearers include actor Martin Shaw as his TV alter-ego Judge John Deed, and Daniel Craig — particularly as James Bond, 007.[3] Many business people, newscasters (such as Larry King in the US)[4] and professionals[5] such as lawyers also wear braces. John Barrowman playing Captain Jack Harkness in the hit TV show Torchwood often wears braces.
Suspenders (nearly always referred to by the British term "braces") are also a typical part of skinhead, and to a lesser extent, punk fashion. In skinhead and punk fashion braces are typically between 3/4" and 1" in width. To some skinheads the color and placement (either up around the shoulders or down around the waist) of braces may have political significance.
Materials used for making suspenders have also changed over time, with newer additions such as rayon, a hard-wearing synthetic fibre, now offered as well as the standard boxcloth (a fuzzy woollen cloth). Silk, though traditional, is not long-lasting.[4]
Suspenders may have owed some popularity to the lack of options in trousers.[citation needed] One pair of suspenders will make many pants, even ones with waists which are several sizes too big, fit comfortably.[original research?]
[edit] Wearing braces
High quality braces are usually considered[weasel words] white collar (US), or upper or upper-middle class (UK) wear and are made to be attached to trousers by buttons only.[4] Noted manufacturers include Albert Thurston[4] (sold re-branded by most outfitters), who supply high-profile actors, such as Daniel Craig in the role of James Bond in Casino Royale and Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street and John Barrowman as Captain Jack Harkness in Torchwood. [3]
In traditional or formal settings, it is considered a faux pas to wear both suspenders and a belt at the same time,[1][6] though this has not always been the case among all classes in the past. Further, it was considered that as underwear, braces should never be seen at all.[1] As was usual before the War, the waistcoat, or for coolness in summer a jumper or cardigan, covered up parts of clothing then considered improper to be seen, such as braces, and similarly jumpers and jackets kept the shirtsleeves hidden. Even before the War, however, men began removing jackets in public, and so this sensibility was eroded. It is perhaps only in Britain that some still consider it "gauche"[4] to wear (for example) brightly coloured braces, or braces with no jacket. In general however, it is now considered acceptable on both sides of the Atlantic for braces to be visible, and in 2008 it was even fashionable for colourful or designer braces to be prominently on show.[7]
The trousers for braces have buttons for attaching the tabs, either on the outside (traditionally) or on the inside of the waistband, which does not have belt loops. The trousers also have a high back in the fishtail shape, though this is not so common now;[4] this shape has an additional adjuster strap at the back as well as the two side adjusters placed on most belt-less trousers.
[edit] References
- ^ a b c d Flusser, Alan (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion. HarperCollins. pp. 221–225. ISBN 0-06-019144-9.
- ^ The fact that the Brideshead Revisited film has had influence on fashion in 2008 can be seen by its mention by manufacturers, such as Hackett. "'Brideshead Revisited': Get the look". Autumn 2008. http://www.hackett.com/index.cfm?page=1026&ArticleID=13156. Retrieved 2008-11-27.
- ^ a b Sims, Josh (2007-12-17). "Brace yourself for suspenders". http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/56a1c720-aab0-11dc-a779-0000779fd2ac.html?nclick_check=1. Retrieved 2008-11-21.
- ^ a b c d e f Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style. HarperCollins. pp. 154–5. ISBN 978-0-06-089186-2.
- ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 41
- ^ "Should I wear a belt when I wear suspenders?". men.style.com. April 2000. http://men.style.com/gq/fashion/styleguy/accessories/7. Retrieved 2008-11-27.
- ^ Patino, Alexander (Autumn 2008). [www.ezinearticles.com/?What-to-Wear---Mens-Fall-08-Style-Guide&id=1566957 "What to Wear — Men's Fall 08 Style Guide"]. www.ezinearticles.com/?What-to-Wear---Mens-Fall-08-Style-Guide&id=1566957. Retrieved 2008-11-27.